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King Buffet

The most prominent buffets in town are at the casinos. But the local Chinese restaurants have been buffet kings just as long. King Buffet in Henderson hopes to become royalty in the LVNV buffet world.

The first thing you notice about King Buffet is its newness. The next thing you notice is that 85 percent of the clientele is Oriental. That’s a good sign, since they can compare the buffet fare to their grandmother’s home cooking.

The best thing on the buffet is the baked salmon, a dish my grandmother would make! The chefs added no sauce. They didn’t have to because they baked it perfectly. The pink flesh fell off the skeleton, flaking at the sight of a fork. The exterior had just a little crunch while the inside was as juicy as an overripe fruit. This is an amazing feat for a buffet.

Another winner from my grandmother’s kitchen was the steamed Lake Superior whitefish. This forcefully flavorful fish was again simply steamed in its own juices. The chef respected the fish and didn’t gum it up with unnecessary trinkets. I appreciated his restraint.

The Hunan beef was remarkably tender, considering the beef is skirt steak, a very inexpensive cut. Red peppers gave the dish its fire. Fermented black beans in the sauce added that distinctive acidic flavor.

I’m not a fried food person, but the Thailand chicken won me over. Tiny chicken nuggets were encased in a batter that was both sweet and sour. Keep a water glass nearby because those babies are hot!

I also liked the fried crab. A puff pastry surrounded a crab claw. The pincer part sticks out of the pastry. It looked as good as it tasted.

Traditional Oriental meals always start with soup. The egg drop soup was scalding. A thick chicken broth was cloudy with the floating egg whites. The won ton soup had a beefy broth. The won ton skins were wonderfully slithery, just like noodles.

The egg roll had large slices of fresh veggies locked in a bready cocoon that was expertly seared crispy on the outside. The yellow mustard here was chokingly hot!

The sushi selections looked a little tired around the edges. I guess people just weren’t eating the rolls fast enough. Since the restaurant handled seafood so nimbly, I was disappointed there weren’t any mollusks in sight. And there was not much variety on the dessert tray. Maybe that’s why everyone was eating soft serve ice cream. Yuck!

I’d definitely go back the next time I was in Henderson. But Sunset Station still tops my medium priced buffet list.

The King Buffet is located at 1450 West Horizon Ridge Parkway just off the 215. The telephone number is 702.263.0806.

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